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On the road . September 2007 . Pakistan and India

map route Pakistan and India

Green Hotel
[website] McLeod Ganj 23-09-07
It's all or nothing
Islamabad to Amritsar
(5 cycle days; 4 rest days; 373km; 808m)

Islamabad to Dina (105km; 446m)
Dina to Gujranwala (130km; 228m)
Gujranwala to Lahore (75km; 51m)
Lahore to Wagah (30km; 30m)
Wagah - Pakistan to Amritsar - India (33km; 53m)

All about the money
Whoever designed Islamabad must have had Europe in mind as it would have made a beautifully green city environment. What they forgot to take into account is that in this part of the world not everyone has enough money to firstly own a house and then if they do, the concept of maintenance is valued little. Consequently, lining the roadsides in between the main sectors are scores of really filthy tent villages. The apartment blocks and housing making up a large percentage of the "working class" area are also considerably decayed and in such a state of ruin that you can hardly believe this city is only 40 something years old...

read on
smelly tevasTip of the month: Smelly Tevas?
We got this great tip for smelly Tevas from the Wereldfietser Forum.

Tevas are renowned for stinking, just ask anyone who has ever owned a pair. Soaking your sandals overnight in a bucket of reasonably concentrated Dettol solution as well as giving them a bit of a scrub in the stuff will get your Teva's staying pretty fresh for at least a month. It does really work. Dettol however, is not completely eco-friendly. While the pine oil, castor oil are natural, the chloroxylenol it contains is a medium toxic substance. So if you are looking for a more natural alternative to this cleaning tip, then you can make a paste of bicarbonate soda, lemon juice and plenty of drops of tea tree oil. Scrub the Tevas thoroughly in the paste and leave them covered in it overnight. Scrap off the residue the next morning and rinse. This also works well, though the freshness doesn't last quite as long as the dettol method.


Islamabad (Pakistan) - Chandigarh (India)
Kilometres: 934 kilometers and 630 meters
Riding days: 14
Alti meters: 6492 meters
Weather: sunny, but temperatures (finally) going down
Best accommodation: Green Hotel in McLeod Ganj for their fantastic food and wireless internet

Special thanks to:
The owner of for spontaneously offering to drive us around Lahore and dropping us off on the other side of town • The Hashmi family in Wapda Town Gujranwala for feeding us, giving us a place to sleep and the nice conversations • All the people (and pets) that remembered Ali's birthday on September 7 • Julie & Ian for the fun, though short 30 kilometre cycle together; for sharing meals, conversations and of course their delicious Douwe Egberts coffee •

11: flat tyre
11: spoke
12: flat tyre
12: spoke
26: spoke
28: flat tyre
29: spoke (all of the above by Son...)

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