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ON THE ROAD: OCTOBER 2006 photos: video:
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Peniche (Portugal) - Granada (Spain)

Kilometers: 1306 kilometers and 380 meters
Riding days: 17
Weather: on and off sun, rain, wind, sun, more rain, drizzle
Alti meters: 9371 meters
Best campsite:

Olhão
equipped with really good facilities, friendly staff and local prices

Special thanks to:
* Tiago in Lisbon for welding Ali's bike (for free)!
* Paul at DataEME in Benfica Lisbon for the free service on our computer so that we can now wifi where we like.
* Jan and Meta for the exchange of travel stories and a drink in El Rocio
* Piet-Hein and Sarah for the bar of delicious chocolate and interesting conversation in El Rocio.
* Ruiz-Herrera in El Peurto de Santa Maria for replacing the bottom bracket with such short notice and for the amazing price of 20 euros
* Thanks yet again to the Dutch Taxation office for supporting us this month.
* Friedrich in Luxembourg for the timely e-mails with reassuring advise.
(Nietzsche - Those in search of pure water, have to swim upstream) !!!
*
EuroSRS for hosting this site!

Breakdowns:
01: derailler cable (Son)
19: flat tyre 10kms (Son)
19: flat tyre 15kms (Son)
19: back tyre replaced (Son)
20: bottom bracket replaced (Son)
25: ortlieb bag ripped after fall (Ali)
26: back tyre replaced (Ali)

By the way:
before we left we were interviewed for Rabobank magazine Rtussen.
In Dutch click here or English here.

feed the ants

Tip of the month: feed the ants don't kill them
Want to be sure that the ants don't raid your tent? Then give them something to eat too. A couple of sugar lumps (or anything sweet really) placed at a distance from the tent will keep the neighbourhood ants occupied for the length of your stay. Glad ziplock bags (the genuine ones not some copy brand!) are also pretty good for keeping pests out of your food supplies and are easy to wash and re-use.

Want more tips? Visit our publications page for an overview...

 

Internetcafé along the way, Torre del Mar 27-10-2006
Peniche to Lisbon (2 cycle days; 113km; 1350m)
Peniche to Ericeira
(62km) was a hell's day of riding. I could have handled the steepness of the hills, the gale force headwinds or even the arrogant, road greedy truck drivers that continually pushed us off the road or drove so close that you got sucked along in their stream (very scary indeed). But when it began to piss with rain going up the 12% hill just before reaching our destination, I had had it! I screamed as loud and hard as I could. I let everything out and it's these times that you wonder what the dickens you are doing. Riding a bike around the world. What an idiot! But soon after these moments of despair, when you've calmed down you know exactly why. Can't explain this in words yet but that'll come. The camping in Ericeira was super and had every possible amenity to make camping comfortable and pleasant. And it was certainly needed that evening because it stormed a beauty. We resorted to a cold dinner of cheese, olives, apple salad and bread in the tent because there was no chance to light the cooker. The next day was calm, pleasant and sunny and we had a easy trip into Lisbon (51km). Passing through the outskirts you witnessed the rather unpleasant sights of a big city's poverty. Two days later we took the bus into the city and the route took us through a much more affluent area. Everything was neat, tidy and well arranged. It was so apparent that there are the well off and the not so well off in Portugal. And there's a huge gap between the two.

The campsite (half hour ride by bus from the city itself) was surprisingly okay except the stench from the toilet blocks and outrageous prices in the supermercado (supermarket). We travelled into the outskirts of the city the next day to get Ali's eyelets welded back on his bike. We ended up in the back streets at a car mechanics and Tiago, the brother of the bike repair shop owner and while chatting away in brilliant English, happily welded and sprayed Ali's bike back together. Lonely Planet warns that you need to take everything with you into Portugal but this is not true at all. There a plenty of trendy mountain bike shops in the cities with prices to match and even a few in the smallest of towns. Secondly, you can purchase standard parts from the chain stores: Sportzone or Decathlon. We visited the centre of Lisbon on a Thursday, which unbeknown to us was a day when all the shops are shut. Still haven't worked that one out yet? There was a demonstration in the late afternoon and of course this disrupted the transport system so that we arrived home very late to cook in the dark. We had a nice break there for 4 nights before heading on down the coast. The weather had also held for the complete stay.

Lisbon to Olhão (5 cycle days; 364km;2373m)
Getting out of Lisbon was easy. There was another demonstration and the road blocks meant we had to weave in and out of traffic queues, pedestrians and footpaths. Still it took us just over 30 minutes to reach the ferry terminal that took us to Barreiro. From there we cycled into Setubal (51km) and decided to pitch tent early that day. There were two campsites just out of town (Outão) and we chose the one on the beachfront. Don't know what the other one was like but it couldn't get much worse than the one we were at. The whole site was full of permanent vans with attached tents and there were only about four spots to choose from; all in the blazing sun and with no tree in sight. No-one smiled at us at this campsite. The outsider syndrome! Anyway, we wanted to update the web site and check our mails so off into town we went with the hope of finding an internet café. After a lot of biking around and yet again following directions from misinformed tourist office employees we finally went to a copy-shop that we had spotted on the way into town. Unfortunately, after a couple of tries (our Lacie not recognised), we abandoned this plan and ended up on a terrace sipping an ice cold beer out of the bottle because the glasses looked as though they had been rolled in fat. And the Lonely Planet recommends this town if you really want to see Portugal for what it is! We left as soon as we could the next day.

We needed to catch a ferry to the Troia Peninsula and met a couple of Spanish guys (George and Michael) on lightly packed bikes heading towards Seville. They recommended Porto Covo (96km) and so we decided to see what was on offer there. The trip was very boring. No where to stop along the way and nothing of interest to see but pine forests, military fences, shrubs, more shrubs and sand. As consolation, the roads were good. I found it rather frustrating that the beachfront was only a kilometre away or so. One break in the boredom was the majestic image of storks standing on top of their almost human-size nests on the uppermost perch of buildings and electricity masts. The last stretch of road into Porto Covo was dangerously narrow for us and obviously frustrating for some of the very impatient drivers. We reached the campsite early enough and were once again disappointed by the lack of good pitches available for tents. Everything is geared towards camper vans and caravans and it's beginning to become extremely annoying. To further taint our freedom; light is out really early now (7.30pm) and is still dark when we get up in the morning; 7.30am and stays that way until about 8am. Makes it difficult to achieve a lot in one day, when most of the day is taken up with riding. Next stop was Lagos (116km) Weather was beautiful and it was also quite a hilly ride (911m). We got into town really late, did some shopping at my favourite store; Pingo Doce and then followed a sign to a campsite that no longer existed (down a 17% hill that Ali had to cycle back up again afterwards. I had waited on top). Rather dubiously, we took the other sign in the other direction but this time it did lead to a campsite. Again a stretch of rocks and sand with a price tag for those seeking refuge for the night. Lots of Australians backpacking and tenting it around Europe!
The next campsite was even worse: Armação de Pêra (42km). This town was obviously catering for the British tourist with bars offering fish and chips on Friday, roast beef on Sunday and full English breakfasts available all day long. The beach was pretty okay, if you don't mind deck chairs and umbrellas lining the waterside. Our luck with campsites changed the next day when we arrived in Olhão (62km). Well equipped, pleasant and helpful staff, oldish but very clean amenities, internet service and local priced bar and restaurant facilities. Nice sites with lots of trees. We managed to find a fairly quiet area with a flat piece of turf to camp on but towards the end of our stay it became more raucous with the addition of a Spanish family and several overly large camper trucks from The Netherlands with attention seeking occupants. We had chosen an opportune moment to leave. Met a Dutch couple a few days later in El Rocio who had camped close to where we were and left after one day because it was too busy for them.

 

Ou cycling trip through Portugal: click HERE to view a larger map and more details

 

Olhão to Tarifa (6 cycle days; 1 rest day; 477km; 2105m)
We only needed to cycle 45 km's to reach Monte Gordo near the ferry crossing on the border of Portugal and Spain. This would have been the worse campsite ever except for the fact that the next day we stumbled upon the most slimiest and grottiest of all places I have ever dared set foot in. We had decided not to mention bad places but besides the fact that it cost an outrageous 15 euros a night, this one is really a health hazard. So our message is: stay clear of Mazagon (95km). Camp wild; go four kilometres further on to the next site; use one of the cardboard boxes on the roadside; do anything but stay here. The ride that day had revealed both sides of the scale. We had rain and sunshine, very good and extremely bad roads, cycle paths and highways, nature and enough industry to remove most of your nose hairs in one sniff. We first stopped at a campsite about 30kms earlier but they wanted 21 euros (2/3rds of our budget) for a sand pit. Although it was spick and span and 4pm, we promptly left and decided to take pot luck. And that's what we go for sure. The next morning it bucketed down; enough to keep us in our tent until 10.30am. Upon exiting, we were amazed that our spot was surprisingly dry. All around us however, the puddles reflected the blue and green tarpaulins from the permanent erections that filled the place. Half were for sale if that gives you an indication of the state of affairs. So it was a very late start (around 12pm) and we reached El Rocio after a very easy 42kms. The whole way we were heading towards a little patch of blue in the sky, while all around us the greyness continued to close in. The landscape was dry and quite barren except for olive tree groves that went on further than my eyes could see. We managed to get the tent up and have a shower before we realised that the 13 days of glorious sunshine were over. It bucketed again and well into the next day with thunder and lightning and all the other noises that go along with a storm. We exchanged travel stories with some very interesting couples; all from The Netherlands. El Rocio is just as its name suggests: a town where all the roads are dirt and the houses resemble a western town out of High Noon. At the weekends they all come out and play cowboys. Unfortunately, we didn't get to witness this act of frivolity as it was the beginning of the week and seeing as there was not much more to experience there, we moved on after the habitual morning shower the next day to Dos Hermanas (107km). You couldn't have asked for a more contrasting image; a town of complete renovation. New apartments and buildings going up in every corner possible. All of this was happening around a city centre where you could easily get lost in the one-way cobbled streets. There's a lack of supermarkets and bread shops and we experienced the annoyance of the Spanish opening hours once again. You really have to be prepared in this country. Most shops close at 1 or 2 pm and don't open again until 5.30pm. When it gets dark at 7.30pm, this doesn't give you much time to cycle into town, shop, shower and then prepare and eat the evening meal. I wanted to stop and do some washing, chores and the usual garb that comes with travelling on the road but Ali promised me that we would reach a beachfront the next day and we could relax in the sun on sandy shores. He was right about the beach bit but unfortunately the weather didn't permit the sun baking (not that there has ever been time for that so far in our trip) The journey to El Peurto de Santa Maria (107km) was very hard work. Despite the fact that I had two flats within half an hour and my bottom bracket nearly fell out and it felt like I was pushing a lump of sponge along the highway, we managed the distance in reasonable time. It was however, highway in every sense of the word. Triple lanes and raging traffic. Having to come to a complete stop to cross lanes on numerous occasions because the vehicles were constantly roaring past at well over 100kms/hour. It was exhilarating to say the least and when we reached the well manicured campsite we were both pretty exhausted. I can't remember falling asleep that night but I do remember enjoying every moment of rest. The next day was spent trying to find a bike shop to replace my bottom bracket and again the opening hours stopped us from achieving everything we wanted to do. Luckily, the bike shop managed in their busy schedule to fix my bike, which meant we could leave the next day. Tarifa (108 km) is, according to the Lonely Planet, a Bohemian town. My experience is that it is more of a yuppie, dreadlocked kite surfers town with a few other normal people camping overnight before venturing further along the coast or jumping continents to Morocco. We met Lucas here. Also another cyclist, but heading towards Africa. It was the first time that we faced the chance to radically change our plans. What if we turned the applecart upside down and decided to go to Morocco and travel down through Africa. I mean, what is stopping us? We did think about it and I even planned a route backwards from Brazil and through America and into Asia; then Indonesia to Australia. But then we would miss out Italy, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and well ...we'd really like to see these places as well. So it's on with the original plan. Tomorrow away. Heading towards Malaga and then on to Alicante for a long earned rest. Well at least that was the plan. However, it poured from mid afternoon on the 23rd until 12pm the next day and we were stranded once again. The camping just out of Tarifa is pretty okay though with some well seasoned travellers with an experience or two to relive. Some of these guys have been on the road forever. Hope we can hit it tomorrow.

Camping Bella Vista [website] Águilas 03-11-2006
Definitely not a cyclists dream: Tarifa to Puerto Motril (3 cycling days, 261km, 2065m)
There's no cycling info here because I wouldn't recommend this section of Spain to my worst enemy. You are forced to use the highways (Only the autovia's). There are no alternative routes and the drivers are impatient and have little respect for anyone else but themselves. I have never been so scared nor felt so helpless in my whole life. Worse still, I couldn't have imagined that I would have been faced with this attitude so early on in the trip. We've cycled in South East Asia and read and heard first hand stories from others about the pecking order of cyclists there and in most second and third world countries. Just wouldn't have imagined that this mind-set was here as well.

Since the rain in Tarifa, I have been grumpier and grumpier about the weather and looking back on it a little unfair on Ali, who is the eternal optimist. It's just that, I thought it would have been fairly smooth sailing at this stage in our travels. Sunny beaches, white sand, great summer weather and after a hard days work which I've never minded at all, relaxing by the tent in the evenings. Sure it's got to rain every now and again because that's life. But if you've been following our story you will have realised this picture is far from reality. Luckily enough, Tarifa was a nice place to camp and we could relax in the bar while the showers continued. On the down side, there was the enormous price tag of twenty euros a night for this patch of grass. In addition to that, you have to pay for your bicycles in Southern Spain. We have only experienced that once in our travels, up until now. Down right cheeky really. In fact, it cost more in Tarifa for two persons, a tent and two bikes than it did for two persons with a caravan laden with bikes on the back. As soon as the guy at reception realised this, he charged us the same as the latter package. Sorry, but something just doesn't add up there.

Anyway to stop me from being a right proper pain for the entire trip, the sun shone as we left Tarifa and we pushed up a couple of quite easy passes. All the while, I was panging to see something different. Something non-European. Something exotic. And maybe it was my saddened feeling about not opting for Africa that triggered the events that followed. Ali would say that's rubbish and that there's no such thing as fate. I on the other hand, don't really know anymore. That day, we nearly died twice on the highways due to a couple of insane drivers with radical manoeuvring tactics at exit lanes. Ali skidded in some oil on a round-about just before Algeciras and ended up flat in the middle of the road, minus his packs on one side. One Ortlieb bag didn't stand up to the skid as well as his minor-grazed knee and I'm afraid, the holes are a firm reminder that our gear is not as sturdy as all the adverts make out. Mid afternoon and well past the Rock of Gibraltar, we were cycling like mad to try and outride the black skies coming in from behind us. Our efforts were in vain and within seconds it was as if someone was throwing buckets of water over you at close range. Going down a hill, with this sort of rain means the brakes don't really work and it's hang on for dear life until the well appreciated bus stop, where I chucked another wobbly. After the ferocity had died down a bit, we cycled on in the drizzle for the rest of the afternoon until the timely stop under a viaduct that prevented us from getting even wetter than we already were. Our main concern now was that it was getting dark and we still hadn't shopped or found the campsite.

A quick detour through the town to the tourist bureau and then we were heading back out again towards the highway. The roads were incredibly busy (peak hour) and rain filled potholes indistinguishable. Ali hit one at a decent speed and his other backpack flew off. Luckily enough, on the side of the street and at one of those moments when I wasn't sitting right behind him. We pulled up on the sidewalk to repack his gear and noticed a female proprietor anxiously pacing under the canope of her fancy shoe shop. She looked most uncomfortable that we had placed ourselves in close proximity to her store. Bad for business I suppose and to be honest we must have looked a sight; saturated from the days downpours, mud from head to toe, collected off the highways and our bikes in literally the same condition.

There were 3 campsites in this area: the first 8 km out of town and a ridiculous 25 euros/night looked dark and dismal and so we after a few supplies from the Spanish equivalent of a 7-11 (SuperCor), we ventured on in the drizzle. We arrived, relieved at the next site, 4 km further on to be told that we couldn't camp there. They had a policy of not accepting tents in the winter season. The woman explained that they didn't want to take responsibility for what may happen to us during a storm and according to her it could rain "ooh la la" there. Well according to this cyclist it rains "ooh la la" all over Europe! And on that note we have to give our Helsport tent a 10 out of 10 score. It has kept us dry through some of the strongest storms. Of course, the campsite owner wanted to earn money. So, after Ali diplomatically and charmingly explained that it may have escaped her attention that we were on bicycles, it was dark and that we couldn't go on any further, they took our 14 euros and let us stay. But only at our own risk! We pitched in yet another gravel/rock pit and very willingly went to sleep after warm veggie soup, bread, chocolate and reliving the day's danger moments.

A visit to the periodontist
The next day had a promising air about it. The weather had broken and we only needed to find somewhere to stay close to Malaga because I had the first of my 4-monthly checkups with a periodontist on the following morning at 9am. I had been dreading this bit since I found out the news about my teeth in August last year, but it was all relatively simple to organise. I e-mailed a clinic that I found on the internet in Tarifa and mentioned that I would be in Malaga on the Thursday or Friday. I received a prompt reply the next day that an appointment had been made for me on the Friday and could I please confirm via e-mail. After what I went through in The Netherlands to get an appointment with a periodontist, this was a piece of cake!

The trip was highway for the complete 37km to Torremolinos. The early arrival at the campsite along with the warm sun and slight breeze gave Ali a chance to repair the Ortlieb bag with bike puncture patches and silicone and myself to do the never-ending laundry. Situated 7 km from the city centre of Malaga we gauged an hour would be ample time to get to the clinic in the morning. We rose at 7am in the pitch black, left at 8am, still in darkness and arrived rather distressed and without a minute to spare at the clinic just after it had begun to get light. Fourty-five minutes of cycling in the dark across Spanish highways in peak hour traffic is an experience I would like to forget.

After pressing the buzzer to the majestic old building, right in the centre of Malaga, I trundled up the staircase to the first level. I was let into a completely different world; baby blue walls, white ceilings with elaborate cornicing, brass fittings and waxed wooden floorboards were a civilised break from the mayhem I had just faced. Picture frames housed numerous lithographs which immediately caught my eye and kept me entertained while sitting in the glassed-off waiting room. Behind reception hung a polished steel logo of the business. Even the toilet was fitted with fine porcelain and stainless steel. Not to forget the Calvin Klein and other such brand name perfumes at your disposal. A far cry from what I had been used to. Adrian Guerrero personally checked my teeth and gave me his opinion before leaving me in the hands of one of his hygienists. She meticulously grinded, scraped, cleaned and polished my teeth for almost an hour. This visit cost 65 euros. What a shame I didn't know about this when I first moved to the Netherlands.

I stepped out of the dream world and back onto the reality of highway N340. The drizzle started soon after Malaga, worsened along the way and was replaced by gale-force headwinds in the early afternoon. It made the ride up and down the coastal region of Costa del Sol incredibly difficult. There was a constant flow of trucks and cars and buses and things moving faster than you that you grew increasingly irritated by their extreme closeness and the headwinds made, what would normally be a fair days workout, an energy zapping experience. At some stages, I had absolutely no control over my bike. I had to let the wind take me and allow my balance to keep me upright. I had been lagging well behind for a while and was hoping to stop for something to eat and drink. After the climb out of Nerja, when I managed to catch up to Ali, I was rather annoyed to find that it was the last town for quite a while. It was partly lack of communication, stress of the full-on day, trip to the peridontist, weather conditions and just the sheer frustration of feeling so vulnerable in the traffic that sparked it, but I pulled up in a parking bay and flipped yet again.

I just couldn't see the fun in it anymore. Personally, if I had done this alone (and that's a question in itself), I would have jumped on a train with my bike by now and gone somewhere else. If, every third day or so, I saw something stunning, that blew me away or gave me goose bumps, then it would be worth the two days battle with traffic, highways, wind and rain. But if I'm really honest I haven't seen much in Spain, except the Pico's and the Pyrennees, that has really touched me at all. The beaches along the Costa del Sol have black sand for goodness sake and are far from spectacular. They do however, sell everything English, German and Dutch if that's any consolation. Everything is totally over-developed to the max. The countryside is one huge construction area and like the Portuguese, the Spanish use any public space and especially roadsides as dumping grounds. Anything that doesn't work anymore, televisions, fridges, car parts, baby pushers, not to forget the copious amount of plastic bottles, cans, glass, waterlogged diapers that look like they'll explode any minute and the days leftovers from a parkside picnic gets thrown onto the land. The other rather alarming issue is the amount of cadavers on the roadside that as a cyclist you have to swerve around or you and your bike end up in a pretty messy state. They are everywhere and some of the sights we have witnessed are enough to give you nightmares at night. It's quite possible that as a tourist you'll miss this side of Spain from the air-conditioned car or bus and you are wondering what the dickens I'm on about. Mostly, you look above your nose to the horizon, to where you are going and to be honest the touristy spots are pretty clean: to give the right image, of course. Travel a few kilometres out of there into some of the smaller townships and it's another story. As a cyclist your senses are heightened; you see, hear, feel and smell almost everything.

So back to us: both, on top of a hill, in a parking bay both feeling miserable and this time it was Ali's turn to let it go. It was for all the same reasons I had flipped plus the added strain of my never-ending whinging. All he could get out between the tears was, "I just want to enjoy myself with you!" I felt like a right proper shit and immediately sorry for not endeavouring to look on the bright side of life, which he does do to perfection. From this moment on, after cuddling him as close as I could while still perched on my bike and repeatedly saying sorry, I promised myself to try!

In Spain, they relentlessly beep their horns; to say hello, let you know that they are overtaking, relieve their frustration in a traffic jam and warn you of danger. So you can well imagine, it's all very confusing. Maybe it's a tonal thing and we have not yet worked it out; but when the truck beeped his horn from in the distance behind me I thought nothing of it and continued to cycle along the puny gravel covered shoulder available for slow moving traffic. The next thing I heard was Ali screaming "quick, get off the road Son!" I did and in just enough time to feel the truck whisk by with only centimetres between him and me. Had I stayed on the shoulder then I don't think I would be writing this now. Since emotions were high that day, the tears just flooded out. So much so, that I had to stop because I couldn't see anymore. I couldn't and still can't believe the arrogance of the guy behind the wheel. What would he have done if I had have stayed on the road? What if I didn't have space to pull over? A little further on he would have had to slow down for the road block. If it was his daughter on a bicycle along the highway I'm sure he would have made ample space for her. I guess I have to get accustomed to it but I will never accept it for normal behaviour.

We had to pass through three tunnels that day and it was pretty scary stuff as well. The longest being only 650m, seemed like an eternity and we had about 50cm to cycle on with cat eyes strategically placed in the middle. The grates on the side were sunken 10cm below the surface so it was concentration to whole way. Upon exiting I breathed a sigh of relief. Ali as well, so he told me later on that night. Most of the days events were forgotten when a truckie slowed down and covered us by the last tunnel so we could cycle freely through without feeling threatened by traffic from behind. Thank you. You restored our faith in human nature.

We arrived late in Puerto Motril and the storm was in full swing. We had to push like crazy to get ourselves down the hill leading into town. We were once again disappointed at the state of the campsite but that was only a minor detail. Our legs were aching and we were in need of a warm meal. I smothered Ali in kisses all night because he deserved them and said repeatedly I was sorry. We planned our escape into the mountains for the next day but unfortunately the storm was still around us and forced us to stay another day where we really didn't want to. We visited the town of Motril and found a wifi point by the Tourist Office so we could update the site. The next day we did make the escape.

Granada saved our sanity (86km; 1475m)
We should only travel in the mountains. We seem to encounter fabulous weather when we do; the Pyrenees; Picos and now Granada. The trip (Puerto Motril to Granada) is not for the weak hearted as it was a almost seven hours of climbing (more than 50 of the total 86 km's). At some stages in the upward journey, I was secretly hoping that it would level off, just for a little breather but it still kept on at between 7 and 12%. Of course you always make it to the top. Something inside seems to keep you going, even when you think you haven't got enough in you. At the end of this trip I realised that we are now both really physically fit. Mentally, I still need a bit more work but I reckon, Ali could climb his way to heaven.

Although the day started out very overcast and we could only see our immediate surroundings which is a bit of a bummer when cycling in the mountains, the weather turned out to be just perfect. Beautifully clear blue skies, which also meant it was baking in the sun. Constantly dripping with sweat, we needed several water stops along the way. The first part of the day took us through very small villages with not much sign of life. The road was good and with very little traffic (for Spain that is). We needed to take a stretch of highway (10kms) to shorten the trip by 21kms or so and in hindsight I'm not so sure which is worse. Of course, it was just as nerve-wracking as any other Spanish highway, except for the decent sized shoulder. Continual flow of fast cars, trucks and buses and that irritating vhrrrmmm rhythm they create as they incessantly fly past. We were glad when we could turn off onto the alternative route again. This took us up and down like a couple of yoyos until we reached the valley just before Pto del Suspiro del Moro. The surroundings, all day, had been spectacular: rugged limestone rocks jutting high into the sky and us like tiny ants crawling our way up the side. It's these moments and you know exactly why you are doing this. There's an amazing sense of freedom being in such majestic nature and it makes up for all the not so nice experiences. From then on it was almost downhill into Granada; a modern, very fast-moving and rather chaotic from a cyclists point of view, city. In fact, Granada makes London seem quite orderly. It has all the mod cons of course and a chance for us to find some badly needed additions. First on the list is a light that attaches to our battery. Daylight savings has finished, so it's dark at 6.45pm and that's way too early to get into bed, I'm afraid. We are normally just starting to cook dinner. Also on the list are a few bike spares and lubricant but the most challenging quest is trying to get our Sony cybershot camera fixed. Three pieces of dirt have managed to find their way inside the lens and this is obviously very annoying when trying to take a photo and not to mention the time and energy used to photoshop it out afterwards. After several emails and with absolutely no response from Sony in The Netherlands (minus 10 points guys!), we got a reply from the Spanish customer service. There's an authorised dealer/technician in Granada, so our fingers are crossed.

We took a day off to go and visit La Alhambra; Moorish castle built in the 13th century and the last one to be taken over by the Christians. Cost ten euros each to get in but was certainly an interesting enough visit and kept us walking around for a number of hours. It had a certain calming effect up on the hill and was a totally different atmosphere to the Spain we knew below.

By the way, we found a nifty little light for the battery which helps us see at night and the bike bits were dead simple to obtain. The Sony story is not as promising. Apparently, the lens needs replacing and we are not very happy about that; 329 euros and 14 months old and we need to make a repair of more than half the camera's value. The emails are out, but I don't like our chances up against a multinational. Will keep you informed.

Country info directory

Want to know more details about the route we took, the hotels we stayed in,
or the altimeters climbed? Check out our country information pages for:

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