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Mexico country information

Mexico map
United Mexican States
Area: 1,972,550 sq km
Population: 106,682,500
Population density: 55 per sq km
Capital: Mexico City
Passport & Visa
Passport Required?
British Yes
Australian Yes
Canadian Yes
USA Yes
Other EU Yes
Visa Required?
British No
Australian No
Canadian No
USA No
Other EU No

Passports
Passport valid for at least six months after date of entry required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.

Passport Note
(a) Applicants for Blue Tourist Cards should have a valid passport, return/onward ticket and proof of financial means. (b) Tourist Cards must be kept by the visitor during the entire length of stay as they will have to be presented and stamped on leaving.

Visas
Not required by nationals referred to in the chart above, who can obtain a Blue Tourist Card for touristic purposes from their airline on direct flights, at port of entry, or from the Mexican Consulate before travelling, valid for 180 days.

Visa Note
(a) Nationals seeking to visit Mexico on business are advised to check with the consulate regarding visa requirements as they may need to apply for a Non Immigrant Business Visitor carnet (FM3). (b) Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements.

Getting there
By Air
Mexico's main airlines are Aeroméxico (AM) and Mexicana (MX)
Approximate flight times to Mexico City:
Istanbul: 14 hours
London: 11 hours
New York: 4 hours
Dubai: 17 hours and 30 minutes
Singapore: 20 hours
Sydney: 16 hours
Buenos Aires: 9 hours and 45 minutes

Main (international) airports

  • Acapulco - Acapulco International Airport (ACA)
  • Cancun - Cancun International Airport (CUN)
  • Guadalajara - Guadalajara Interntaional Airport (GDL)
  • Mexico City - Mexico City International Airport (MEX)
  • Monterrey - General Mariano Escobedo International Airport (MTY)
For more information on airports in Mexico, check Wikipedia or aeropuertosmexico.com.

By Water

Usumacinta river crossing

There is a Usumacinta river crossing from Frontera Corozal, Chiapas to Bethel, in the Petén Department of Guatemala. Frontera Corozal is 167 km south-east of Palenque and can be reached by paved roads. The first 60 kilometres on Guatemalan side are unpaved. This is the shortest route between Palenque and Tikal / Flores.

Although it is not an international crossing, we do like to mention the ferry service from La Paz in Baja California and the mainland here. It is quite a significant crossing; without it, you'd be back pedalling the whole length of Baja.
Baja Ferries ferry services from La Paz (Baja California) to Topolabampo and Mazatlan (mainland Mexico). Ferry TMC is a cheaper option. They also sail from Pichilingue (La Paz port) to Mazatlan and Topolobampo.

By Rail

The Mexican government stopped subsidising intercity passenger services in 2000 and almost all long-distance passenger services were discontinued. There is no international train travel from Mexico to any of its neigbours.

For more on trains inside Mexico, check mexlist.com.

By Road

Main points of entry to/from the USA:

  • Tijuana -San Ysidro border: busiest border in the world, connection San Diego and Tijuana
  • Calexico - connection Calexico and Mexicali
  • Nogales - connection Nogales with Phoenix and Tucson
  • El Paso/Ciudad Juarez - connecting to Tucson and Alberquerque
  • Laredo/Nuevo Laredo - connections to Houston
  • Brownsville/Matamoros - connecting to Houston and Galveston

A list of all border crossings between Mexico and the US can be found here.

There are three main roads into Guatemala:
The Pan American Highway crosses from Ciudad Hidalgo to Ciudad Tecún Umán in Guatemalan province of San Marcos, crossing the Puente Rodolfo Robles bridge.
Further north, the Talisman bridge connects Cacahoatán in Mexico with El Carmen.
Even further north, there is the border crossing from Ciudad Cuauhtémoc to La Mesilla on the Guatemalan side.

Besides this, there is the river crossing into Guatemala, as mentioned under the 'By Water' section. This crossing cannot be done with a car, but bicycles and motorcycles can be transported across the river in small river boats.

The border crossings to Belize are at Subteniente López–Santa Elena, 14 km from Corozal Town in Belize and 11 km from Chetumal in Mexico; and at La Unión–Blue Creek, 54 km southwest of Orange Walk Town.

Cycling & Maps

Cycling in Mexico
It is very hard to generalise the driving conditions in Mexico, since it has such diverse environments and is an enormously large country. But if it were to be summarised, it would go something like this: Cool starts in the morning while the air is still fresh, the sun hasn't peaked over the cliffs and Mexico is still waking up. By midday, the roads are getting much busier. It dies again for siesta in the mid afternoon only to see an emergence of impatience in the late afternoon. Everyone has somewhere to go and possibly a couple of tequilas under the belt as well. Be warned, Mexicans do drink and drive!

Truck drivers are by far the most courteous on Mexican roads and the best we have encountered to date on any roads anywhere we have travelled. Taxis and buses leave a lot to be desired. You'll meet with a warmth of friendliness: waving; tooting; peace signs; thumbs up and big smiles for your entire cycle journey.

The road surface is variable: from super smooth to washed away and very potholed, but the roadwork's department are doing their job by both widening and fixing up highways throughout the whole country and that's a big job. You should not pay too much attention to the newly placed green kilometre signs, since they are incredibly inaccurate. The older white kilometre markers are far more reliable. No matter how big or small, villages and towns are bordered by topes (speed humps) and they are not always clearly painted or marked, so beware. Military posts are a daily experience as well and have some interesting ways of bringing traffic to a stop: navigating your way over split tree trunks, old tractor tyres or 15cm thick ropes will be about the extent of you troubles: cyclists are rarely asked to pull over.

Apart from dual carriageways leading into larger cities and the cuoata (toll) roads, highways in Mexico have little or no shoulder to speak off. You'll get good at cycling on the white line if you plan a cycling trip here. The lead-up into city centres generally have service lanes, which are often poorly surfaced, but at least give you a break from the roar of all the trucks. Watch out for kamikaze bus and taxi drivers though. In general, traffic is very much centred around the townships and dies considerably as you head away from these urban havens.

Roads are diabolically busy on holidays so steer clear of these times if you can. Sundays are also another crazy day on the road. Wear bright colours and a helmet. And if you want reprieve from all the dodging and white line concentration, you can ride on the cuota (toll road) without charge though the cycling tends to be rather boring. Only real bonus is it gets you somewhere quick and you have the added luxury of a massive wide shoulder all to yourself. Enough space to cycle side by side: something that is almost impossible anywhere else in Mexico.

TIP: If you use a map that doesn't have the altitudes on it, you might be able to use the following:
So called microondas (microwave stations or radiomasts) are generaly positioned on or near the highest spot of that particular region. So if you see one, it means that you are very close to: 1. the top of the climb 2. about to go down or 3. at the start of a plateau...

Cycle Central America – touring guide: a wonderfully detailed book researched and written by Ian Benford entailing a framework of routes for exploring southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize and Honduras.

Tip: A little tip from Anna if you like to keep away from the main thoroughfares, is to visit the Secretaria de Comunicaciones y Transportes office in the capital city of each state. They have maps which detail all roads including dirt tracks and unpaved roads. She does mention that the process can be a little bureaucratic and the maps a little out of date, but also says it is well worth it, as they are far better than any other maps she has come across.

Useful links:
Baja Ferries ferry services from La Paz (Baja California) to Topolabampo and Mazatlan (mainland Mexico)
Ferry TMC is an even better (and cheaper) option. They sail from Pichilingue (La Paz) to Mazatlan and Topolobampo.
Volaris and Interjet are two low-cost airlines in Mexico

Best map for Baja California is without doubt the one published by the AAA - the American Automobile Association. It has all the distances (unfortunately in miles, Mexico uses kilometers, but very accurate nevertheless) and even the smallest of roads/tracks. Only downfall: no elevations (except for the towns)
scale: 1:800,000

TIP: If you are a member of AAA or any of its affiliates (even European ones!), you can get all the maps you need for free at any AAA-shop!

Mexico Road Atlas de Carreterras 2005 / Guia Roji Road Atlas (Spiral-bound)

Probably the best atlas you can buy for Mexico. Scale 1:1 000 000
Spiral bound, so you can rip things out you don't need, without ruining the rest of the maps you do need...

Available throughout Mexico

Cost of living
Mexico: all prices in Mexican pesos (MXN)

drinks and snacks

food: local markets; restaurants; and stores

water (mineral)
juice
juice
soft drink (bottle)
soft drink (bottle)
iced tea crystal

2 litre
200ml
1 litre
600ml
2 litre
680g
10
3
13
9
16-18
30

tortillas-large
bread loaf-multi grain

22 pieces
540g
18
19
vege taco or quesodilla
guacomole+chips
cheese omelette+tortillas
mexican donuts-churros
vegetarian buffet
pizza-eat in restaurant
one serving
one serving
one serving
2 piece
all-u-can-eat
grande (large)
6-12
20-30
25-35
1
65-75
115
beer-local
wine carafe / bottle
330ml
1 litre / 750ml
7-11
50 / 70
tea
coffee (cafe / bar)
Nescafe instant
coffee-ground
25 bags
per cup
100g
500g
19
8
33
40
rice (white)
pasta
eggs
tinned tomatoes

kg
200g
per dozen
200g

11-14
3-5
12
5-6
milk
yoghurt / curd
cheese
Magnum icecream
1 litre
1 kg
kg
each

11
22
70-110
16

potatoes
onions
tomatoes
green beans
kg
kg
kg
kg
15
10
12-16
13
chips
tostadas
salsa
salted peanuts
200g pack
40 pieces
210g
900g
22
18
5-6
32
apples
oranges
bananas
avocados
kg
kg
kg
each
15
10
10-12
14-18
dates - fresh
cornflakes
chocolate
biscuits-plain
biscuits-chocolate
kg
375g pack
350g block
200g pack
200g pack
24
32
28
6
12
pineapple (can)
oil (corn)
840g can
500ml
19
11-13
peanut paste
jam
honey - fresh per litre
340g jar
500g jar
500ml = 500g
32
19
12
 
accommodation personal
budget city hostel
budget hotel
75+ per dorm bed
180+ double with ensuite

deodorant - roll-on
soap
shampoo
toothbrush
toothpaste
disposable razor
toilet paper

50ml
90g bar
400ml
each
100ml
2 pack
each
20-24
3
35
8-12
14
20
4-5
camping

wild camping

25 pesos per person - 280 pesos for a site in a tourist spot
possible throughout: keep hidden

internet 10-20 per hour
* tba = price to be announced
* January 2009: at time of writing 1.00 USD = 14.95 MXN
all prices have been taken from internet resources such as wikitravel, hostel world, leading supermarket chains, travel blogs, forums and of course our own travel experiences and purchases of everyday products in food markets, bazaars and local shopping facilities. They are only an indication and designed to give you a general impression of the cost of living in Mexico. Items are geared towards the budget conscious traveller with an occasional craving for a bit of luxury.
* add 20-30% to the above prices for an indication of the cost of living in Baja California


A couple of extra tips:

Bargaining is acceptable at markets if buying in bulk or purchasing products without a marked price, except for food. Generally, most goods have a pricetag or are scanned in on the computerised cash register. When purchasing everday goods, it is uncommon to feel as though you are getting ripped off in Mexico: vendors and shop owners are extremely honest.

Tipping in restaurants and cafes is pretty well expected in Mexico, though not at all compulsory. In tourist areas, there will quite often be ATV tax added above the price on the menu, but everywhere else, what you see is what you pay. If the service is good, round your bill off or tip up to 10%.
In supermarkets, you will notice lots fo school children packing shopping bags at the cash registers, or even offering to carry your groceries out to your car. They are not on the payroll and volunteer their services as a way to earn a bit of extra pocket money. For packing the shopping bag, a bit of loose change is ample and they are very grateful for as little as one or two pesos. Taking the shopping to the car will set you back about 5 pesos and if you want them to walk your shopping back home form the local mercado in small village, it will cost you 10 pesos.

Taxis are generally inexpensive and a quick and convenient way to travel from A to B around the town or even in the immediate area. They only cost 5-10 pesos per trip and tipping is not expected at all.

Internet Facilities in Mexico
Internet cafes can be found all over Mexico and nearly every town you'll pass through will have some form of world wide web facility. In 2009, the standard rate is 10 pesos per hour, but in smaller off the beaten track places it could be as low as 8 pesos or as high as 20 pesos in a cafe in a touristy region. As a rule, you wont find any locals in the latter, so if you want to save yourself some cash, head into the back streets as there is bound to be internet access for the towns residents. Be warned though, they are raucous affairs, with music or video game soundtracks blaring from each and every speaker in the house. It truly is a free for all in the noise department.

Hooking up to an unsecured wifi point is rare in Mexico as most connections are security-enabled and you'll need a code. Free wifi is available in some hotels, restaurants and bars in the more popular destinations for guests only, but outside of these areas you'll have to visit the local internet café for any surfing. The quality and speed varies considerably from establishment to establishment.

Banking
Banamex is a leading Mexican bank and has branches in even the smallest of towns. ATM's accept all major card types and are in Spanish and English.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Mexico is very hit and miss, though finding it is relatively easy, even in the smaller townships. Officially, all establishments must display their rates clearly for potential guests, though these prices are more often than not, the hiked-up high season price. Unless you are there during one of the festival periods, you will never have to pay this amount. Furthermore, if there is competition around, haggling on the price will not be frowned upon.

Hotels, Posadas and Hostels
In 2009, the average cost of a budget double room was 200 pesos. In some towns, this would get you a hot shower, cable television, free wifi and an air conditioner in a pleasantly clean environment. In others, you'll find yourself looking round your bare-basic cement jail in horror, wondering just how someone could expect such a price tag for such a hovel. Though it must be said that even in the grottiest of unkempt boxes, the bed linen and towels are usually clean. You'll also be supplied with a little bar of soap and toilet paper.

A slightly cheaper option is to head to a Posada. You will most likely save yourself a few pesos, but the standard is generally lower as well and if you have ever been to SE Asia, this in relation to the price will appear outrageously expensive. Considering the average cost of living in Mexico, 150-200 pesos is a hefty sum to pay for bottom of the range accommodation.

If you are travelling with more than two persons, then Hostels work out more expensive than getting your own private room in a hotel, though it has to be said that these spots have the added bonus of being able to meet other travellers and more often than not have use of a kitchen and refrigerator.

Official Campgrounds, Camping Wild and Beach Restaurants
Baja California:
Since the hotels are not particularly good value on Baja and hostels are pretty well non-existent, pitching the tent will definitely be your best option. Camping wild with nothing else but you and your Baja cultured cacti garden is, without a doubt, one of the most memorable star gazing experiences you’ll ever have. For safety purposes, it is important to pull well away from the road and in a position that is completely out of sight. This is pretty standard wild camping practice wherever you may be in the world and not just characteristic of Baja. Though typically depictive is the necessity to scout for thorns, goat-head prickles and even broken glass. Check your off road path thoroughly before you wheel your bike in. It can really make or break your trip.

By and large, the bigger towns have at least one campground facility, though amenities and price vary considerably. Don’t be scared to barter the price down. You can also ask to pitch the tent in small villages, at ranches and truck stops throughout the desert stretches. Locals rarely refuse you a patch of ground to spend the night. Another option is to head to the beach, though this generally means travelling very slowly down boggy sand tracks until you reach your paradise. Unless you are travelling in a fairly decent sized group, then it is recommended to stick to the better-known surf beaches. Firstly, there are people around for obvious safety reasons and should you need any extra supplies, someone has a car to go and get it. Remember to take everything with you, including enough water not only for drinking but cooking and washing as well.

In 2009, official camp spots range from 50 pesos on a bare-basics beach in Bahia Concepcion to 200 pesos per person per night in a dusty campground in Cabo San Lucas. On average, expect to pay around 120 pesos or the equivalent in US dollars, which are accepted as widely as pesos everywhere on the peninsula. Most facilities will include a hot shower, a welcomed luxury after a few nights of free-camping in the middle of no-where.

Mainland Mexico:
Compared to Baja, mainland Mexico is a step up on the accommodation front and you'll often have the choice between staying in a hotel or camping in a RV Trailer park. Though the price of pitching your tent will only be marginally cheaper. Don't expect anything but a gravel lot. Tables and chairs are pretty much out of the question. Consider grass an added bonus as is a bit of shade from a few trees. That's why it is better, along the Pacific Coast in any case, to ask a restaurant owners to let you pitch the tent or sleep in one of their hammocks under a palapa, right on the beach. You'll pay no more than 25 pesos per person in most places. That will include light, toilet and often a cold shower as well. For extra comfort, don't forget to pack the repellent and/or mosi-coils.

Some National Parks also offer areas for camping, but by far the most well known spots with great opportunities to pitch the tent are Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Campeche and Chiapas.

Camping wild can be achieved, though it is a little harder to find the perfect spot. Most appropriate areas are either farmland or too out in the open. For obvious security reasons, it pays to remain unseen. Larger groups can get away with camping together on the beach front or even close to some of the rivers.

For more details about camping facilities or hotels throughout Mexico, see the notes on our personal distances chart on this page.

Acommodation we used while in Mexico (November 2008 - May 2009): (prices based on two people sharing)
Star system explained: from 0 to ***** where 0 is a total disaster and ***** is luxurious (and out of our price range)
         
City / town: Name accommodation: Our experience: Price: Stars:
         
Acaponeta Casablanca Hotel bit cramped, but in the city centre MXN 187 **
Acapulco Hotel Del Angel great setting, spotless room MXN 250 ****
Cabo San Lucas Club Cabo Inn (camping) mud pitch, exuberant prices, WiFi MXN 270 ½
Caleta de Campos Beach camp quiet little beach MXN 50 **
Cerro de Ortega Police Station set up camp inside police station MXN --
Chiapa de Corzo Posada Lenin quaint, rustic hostel MXN 200 **
Cintalada Hotel Marlene hot and tiny box without a window MXN 240 *
Col. Vicente Guerrero Meson de Don Pepe campsite dump, including the bathrooms MXN 70 0
Cuajinicuilapa Hotel Marin simple, clean and tidy MXN 200 **½
El Descanso Good Waves campground makeshift campsite MXN 60 ½
El Tuito Hotel Don Juan huge room, clean and tidy MXN 200 ***
Esquinapa Hotel Gratos genuinly friendly MXN 150 **½
Guacamayas Hotel Rosita basic, but cheap MXN 110 **
Guerreo Negro Malarrino Hotel campground mud pitch, WiFi MXN 144 ½
Juchitan de Zaragoza Hotel Las Brisas sweatbox, no windows, not clean MXN 27 ½
La Paz Casa Blanca Trailer Park sandy, but well kept, WiFi MXN 198 **½
Las Varas Hotel Lupita stay away MXN 180 0
Loreto Loreto Shores RV decent pitch, WiFi & guest room MXN 150 **½
Los Barriles Martin Verdugo's Beach Resort good campsite, very neat MXN 155 ***½
Manzanillo Hotel Azteca Centro sweat box MXN 250
Marquelia Hotel Grecia great deal, aircon, very friendly MXN 200 ***½
Maruata Beach camp listening to the waves MXN 50 **
Mazatlan Hotel Lerma simple, but adequate room MXN 180 ***
Melaque Posada Clemens should have looked further MXN 250 ½
Misol Ha Misol Ha bungalows tourist trap MXN 266 *
Mulegé Villa Maria Isabella campground totally neglected MXN 160 ½
Niltepec Hotel Oasssis greedy owner, half decent room MXN 250 ½
Ocosingo Hospedaje La Selva very small room, very small price MXN 120
Palenque Posada Los Angeles clean, modern and friendly MXN 150 ***
Papanoa Beach camp Ojo de Agua most beautiful setting MXN -- ***
Playa Buenaventura Playa Buenaventura camp ok, they had a restaurant... MXN 100 ½
Playa San Pedrito Playa San Pedrito surf camp no facilities, but nice vibe MXN -- **
Puerto Escondido Hostal Puerto Escondido little box, but cheapest in town MXN 140
Puerto Vallarte Hotel Ana Liz decent hotel, but was it worth... MXN 350 **
Punta Perula RV Park Las Palmas friendly bunch, quite allright MXN 150 **½
Salina Cruz Posada San José big cement box, rather old MXN 150 *
San Agustin Trailer Park bucket shower, cacti field MXN 50 ½
San Blas Hotel Morelos home away from home MXN 180 ***½
San Blas Trailer Park Los Cocos sand flies & terrible facilities MXN 150 ½
San Cristóbal dl Casas Posada Mexico (second building) nice room, but no facilities MXN 260 *
San Cristóbal dl Casas Posada Rosalito great appartment ! MXN 160 ****
San Ignacio Rice and Beans campground friendly folks MXN 100 *
San Jeronimo Hotel El Coloso dismal hovel MXN 160 ½
San José del Progreso Hotel Los Cactus motel style tiny room, Sky tv MXN 200 **
San Marcos Hotel El Castillo cartboard pillows, cement box MXN 200 *
San Pedro Pochutla Hotel Olimpia pretty tiny room MXN 220 **
San Pedro Tapanatepec Hotel La Mission pretty groovy, hammocks MXN 250 **½
Santa Rosalía Las Palmas RV what to say... MXN 100 0
Santiago Astata Hotel Paris quite alright, clean MXN 200 **½
Santiago Ixcuintla Motel Lerma tiny room, too big a price MXN 200
Santo Thomás El Palomar campground quite neglected really MXN 120 *
Sayulita Camping El Palmar next to the beach, ok MXN 140
Vizcaíno Kadekaman RV park at least they had a hot shower MXN 200 ½
Zihuatenejo Hotel Bocana big room, aircon, WiFi, clean MXN 200 ****
Food & drink

Mexican cuisine has been styled with considerable influence from Spain. It is known for its use of spices like cumin, turmeric, cloves and cinnamon and of course the famous chilli pepper. Tacos are the most widely consumed fast food and found everywhere. They are a soft tortilla filled with whatever specialty the vendor has on offer. Those hardened taco shells you see lining the supermarket shelves Europe and Australia are typically an invention of the western world and more like a bent tostada than anything else.

Outside of the tourist cities, vegetarians are going to have a hard time in Mexico, unless of course, you don't mind a continual diet of quesodillas, (grilled tacos filled with cheese); guacamole, (avocado dip normally served with tortilla chips) omelettes or steamed elote (corn on the cob).

Self catering is definitely the way to go, if you don't want to get bored and visiting the local market (mercado) could be the highlight of your day. Always colourful and vibrantly buzzing with Mexicans buying their daily produce. You can get everything here from your perishables to all the goods you find at the grocery store too. Fruit and vegetables are in abundant supply, fresh, extremely good quality and generally cheap. Though, it does pay to wash your purchases, as pesticides are used extensively by Mexican farmers.

Meat is a staple in Mexico and seafood devoured by the boat load. In the bigger shopping centres, they dedicate a full refrigeration unit to manteca de cerdo (pork fat) which presents the next problem: the traditional Mexican kitchen just loves using lard.

VEGETARIAN TALK - Spanish

Soy vegetariano/a = I am vegetarian m/f
No como...ni... = I don't eat...nor...
Yo como...y... = I eat...and...
No quiero...o... = I don't want...or...

carne = meat
cerdo or puerco = pork
pollo [poh-yo] = chicken
pescado = fish
huevos = eggs
leche = milk
lácteos = milk products
queso = cheese

verdura = vegetables
fruta (fresca) = (fresh) fruit

Quiero... = I want...
Quisiera un plato que lleve... =
I want a dish containing ...

par llevar = takeaway

por favor = please
gracias = thank you
de nada = you're welcome

Soups are without a doubt made with meat stock, as it is impossible to find vegetable bouillon anywhere in the country Be warned now, even when the packaging says tomato stock cube, it will still contain chicken. In the larger supermarkets you can take your pick these days from three MSG laced varieties of Knorr packet soups: cream of corn, mushroom or vegetable. Even the simple pinto bean, refried or otherwise, is not vegetarian friendly. The only brand on the market that is not cooked with Manteca de cerdo (pork fat) is La Sierra. Luckily, this product easily found throughout the country.

Many guide books warn about tortillas being made with lard as well, but that is rare these days. Even the tortilla kitchen in the supermarket uses vegetable oil (Aciete vegetal) and if in doubt, buy a pre-packeted variety of which their are numerous. Tamales (filled corn shell steamed in the corn husk) are also out of the question as they quite often contain mince meat and are almost certainly prepared with lard.

So, by the time you make it to a big city, you'll really be hanging out for a vegetarian buffet. HappyCow has enough listings for you to give a sigh of relief. Pizza restaurants are also everywhere in the bigger towns and surprisingly enough, the Mexicans know how to make a pretty good version of that Italian favourite. The 100% Natural restaurant chain is situated mostly in big cities throughout Mexico. They are slightly upmarket and pretty pricey for what is just average food. Though the menu is not 100% vegetarian they have a variety of choices for non-meat eaters. A soya burger or tofu enchiladas meal will set you back around 60 pesos.

As far as the cyclist is concerned, there are generally plenty of shopping stops along or just off the major highways on the mainland, though you'll only really find decent sized supermarkets in decent sized towns. Along the Pacific coast, the 250 kilometre stretch between San Juan De Alima and Caleta de Campos has very little on offer as far as groceries are concerned. There is a small store at Tizuapan, but produce can be stale or even worse, growing mould. A moving market runs this strip and you may be lucky enough to catch it as you ride through.

Being so remote, Baja is somewhat different, though little cause for concern: small abarrotes and truck stops line the route. They suffice for basics but be warned, fresh produce is not always fresh, which stands to reason and it does pay to check the used by dates on the canned products. Ensenada has major shopping centres, but will be the last you see until the giant Super Ley on the southbound outskirts of Cuidad Constitucion. Both El Rosario and Guerrero Negro have decent sized supermarkets. On the desert (Valle de los Cirios) stretch in between, the best shopping is at Cataviña and Punta Prieta also has a mini mini-super with just enough goodies to whip up a basic evening meal.

Besides the humble tortilla, Mexicans are quite partial to bread and cakes too. There is usually one bakery (Pandareria) in each town, but if not then you'll catch women with wide wicker baskets on stands at the street corner selling all sorts of delicious looking snacks for 3-4 pesos per piece. Trouble is, everything looks way better than it actually tastes. The bread rolls (bolitta) are definitely delicious, but only on the day of baking. After that they dry up and most of the cakes and cookies will have you grabbing for the water bottle after just one bite.

While the tap water is supposedly potable, it is not generally consumed by Mexicans and therefore a good sign that you shouldn't either. Bottled water is available everywhere and dirt cheap. A five litre flagon can go for as little as 16 pesos, whereas 1.5 litre of the same brand will cost from 10 pesos upwards. Many hotels will have a communal water dispenser in the lobby or on each floor for guests to use and some places will even give you a complimentary bottle on arrival. Cleaning your teeth with the tap water is not likely to hurt you, however you may not wish to continue doing so once you have read a little about how much sewerage gets pumped daily into Mexico's rivers and oceans.

When cycling through Mexico and in particular Baja, keep yourself well stocked with water: in the desert and more remote mountain regions you’ll need it. As well as the usual gallon bottles, some of the bigger towns have refill stations and for 20 cents you can fill your empty bottle with fresh drinking water. In the event of desperation, there is plenty of highway traffic during the day to help you out. Waving an empty bottle from the side of the road will signal that you either need water or gasoline.

Beer and tequila are the Mexicans poison and every town, no matter how small has a least one, if not several, points of sale. All the brands you would associate with Mexico are available: Sol, Corona, Estrelle and Pacifco to name a few. The only boutique beers on the market are Negra Modelo, which is a deliciously flavoursome dark beer and Bohemia, who brew a similarly tempting blond and black variety. At Christmas time some companies will bring out a festive beer which is also definitely worth trying. Cans have no deposit system, but many bottled beers do. By and large, you can return them for your refund at the place of purchase; or take them to the local deposito.
Tequila is found overall, just like beer and there are many different types, flavours, and grades. Price ranges with quality and generally will also reflect the degree of hang-over.

On a non-alcoholic level, Mexico has great thirst-quenching pick-me-ups found in little shops purely dedicated to serving freshly made drinks or at the local market.: Licuados de fruta (Fruit smoothies and milkshakes) are a definite favourite and the combinations are deliciously limitless. Horchata is a traditional beverage originally prepared with the chufa nut, but now more commonly made with rice. The origins of this sweet, milky drink are said to have stemmed from Egypt. Mexican street vendors flavour it with cinnamon, sugar and a hint of lime.

Why not try these for starters?

Quesadillas
Simple but scrumptious: cheese filled tortillas grilled until cheese is runny hot and the tortillas golden brown.
Guacamole Y Totopos
A zesty lemon avocado dip spiced up with garlic, onion and green serrano chile served with crunchy totopos (fried tortilla slices).
Ensalada de Nopalitos [Cactus Salad]
A salad of diced prickly pear, red onion and coriander tossed in a peppery queso fresco (crumbly soft white cheese) vinaigrette
Empanadas
North of Mexico City, in the state of Hidalgo, empanadas, or pastes as they are locally known are particularly famous, tracing their origins from the Cornish pasties imported by British miners in the region. These seasoned sweet potato, pumpkin or cheese filled pastry turnovers, baked golden brown, make an excellent snack night or day and can be easily found in bakeries and in local stores. Wherever you are in Mexico, the empanada is a common treat, but may also be filled with fruit and sprinkled with sugar, which makes a delicious combination with a hot cup of coffee.
Plantino Muffins Y Dulce De Leche
Big moist banana muffins served with a hot caramel candy sauce. Almost a meal in itself.
Arroz Con Leche
The Mexican all time favourite: sweet milk rice pudding scented with cinnamon and lemon.
Margarita
Your visit to Mexico will not be forgotten after you have sampled this national cocktail. Tequila, Cointreau and lashings of lime juice shaken over ice and served in a salt rimmed glass. Perfect for any evening sunset under the palapa on a secluded village beach.
Churros Y Champurradois
Whether straight or curly, these crunchy sugary donuts are even more delectable with a cup of warm, thick Mexican style hot chocolate flavoured with vanilla bean. To liven up the day a little, champurradois may also be made with dash of alcohol.

Bike shops
Cancun
Quintana Roo
Go Cycle Store
Blvd. Luis Donaldo Colosio SMZ 57 local 3
Por la 3er entrada Residencial Las Americas
Cancun
Quintana Roo, Mexico
Tel. 998 1534321
website
Ciudad Constitucion
Baja California Sur
Centro Ciclista El Monociclo *
Calle Ugo Servantes de Rio
Ciudad Constitucion
Baja California Sur, Mexico
Our experience: small shop with only the most basic parts. More of a repair place than anything else. (November 2008)
Ensenada
Baja California
TNT Bicicletas
Calle Octavio #851
Zona Centro
Ensenada
Tel. 646 1781011
Website: www.tntbicicletas.com
Mazatlan
Sinaloa
Kelly's Bicycle Shop ***
Av. Camaron Sabalo No. 204
L-10 Zona Dorado
Mazatlan 82110
Sinaloa, Mexico
tel: 914 11 87
website: www.kellys-bikes.com
Our experience: well stocked shop. You will be able to find all your sought after gear here. Tonnes of foreign gear, like your bike shop at home. Same prices as well... English spoken. (December 2008)
San Cristóbal de las Casas
Chiapas
Bicipartes **
Calle Alvaro Obregon 1-B
Barrio de Santa Lucia
San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas
tel/fax: (967) 678 7082
e-mail: dis_bicipartes@hotmail.com
Our experience: biggest of the bike shops in San Cristóbal (same owners as BettaBike @ Calle Honduras no. 5 int. Barrio de Mexicanos (mercado area: bettamercado@hotmail.com ). Big stock; seats, gloves, pumps, lights and the lower end Shimano gear. Surprising though that hardly any Mexican bike shop has anything that is close to a good tyre ?! (except for the one in Santiago Ixcuintla...) But nevertheless, Paco did a great job, turning an 8-speed cassette into a 7-speed and putting a new crankset and chain on (all bought at Bicipartes). Labour 20 pesos... can't beat that! (April 2009, thanks to Ursula from Los Pinguinos bike tours )
San Patricio Melaque
Jalisco
Bicicletas y Refacciones *
3rd block east from the plaza on Benito Juarez
San Patricio Melaque, Jalisco
Tel: 355 8742
Our experience: break pads, cassettes, chains and other parts in abundance. Busy shop. Shimano, Trek, GT. (March 2009)
Santiago Ixcuintla
Nayarit
Bicipartes del Pueblo **
Calle 20 Noviembre 324
Santiago Ixcuintla
Nayarit, Mexico
tel: 235 23 39
Our experience: small-town shop with surprisingly large stock in tyres, seats and other parts. Great prices and a lot of choice. NOT your average bicicletas and refacciones! (December 2008)
Climate
climate chart Guadalajara Mexico climate chart Merida Mexico
climate chart Mexico City Mexico climate chart Monterrey
Road distances

Mexico road distance chart

Detailed distance chart from our trip through Mexico December 2008 - April 2009 (km/alti)
         
  altitude (in metres) in brackets accomm.:
km
total km
  H= hotel / posada . C= camping / trailer park . B= beach camp
         
San Ysidro (USA) Rosarito (via 1D)
H/C
39
39
Rosarito La Mision
42
81
La Mision Ensenada
H/C
46
127
Ensenada Santo Tomas
C
42
169
Santo Tomas top pass (466 mtr)
12
181
pass Colonet
66
247
Colonet Colonia Vicente Guerrero
C
22
269
Colonia Vicente Guerrero Lazaro Cardenas
27
296
Lazaro Cardenas El Rosario
H/C
56
352
El Rosario top pass (616 mtr)
35
387
top San Agustin
C
52
439
San Agustin Cataviña
C
35
474
Cataviña Rancho San Martin (748)
16
490
Rancho SM top pass (898)
4
494
pass Rancho Chapala (675)
39
533
Rancho Chapala Punto Prieto (255)
63
596
Punto Prieto Rosarito (153)
39
635
Rosarito Guerrero Negro
H/C
83
718
Guerrero Negro Vizcaino
H/C
75
793
Vizcaino San Ignacio
H/C
70
863
San Ignacio Cuesta del Inferno
57
920
Cuesta del Inferno Santa Rosalia
H/C
18
938
Santa Rosalia San Lucas
11
949
San Lucas Mulegé
H/C
51
1000
Mulegé Playa Buenaventura
C/B
39
1039
Playa Buenaventura Loreto
H/C
96
1135
Loreto Lugui
C
40
1175
Lugui top (429)
6
1181
top microwave station
6
1187
microwave station start downhill
26
1213
start downhill Ciudad Insurgentes
H
35
1248
Ciudad Insurgentes Ciudad Constitución
H/C
26
1274
Ciudad Constitución Santa Rita
53
1327
Santa Rita Las Pocitas
44
1361
Las Pocitas El Cien
11
1372
El Cien El Centenario
H
85
1457
El Centenario La Paz
H/C
11
1468
   
La Paz Todos Santos
H/B
85
85
Todos Santos Cabo San Lucas
H/C
82
167
Cabo San Lucas San José del Cabo
H
29
196
San José del Cabo Los Barriles
H/C
79
275
Los Barriles El Triunfo
54
329
El Triunfo La Paz
H/C
58
387
La Paz Pichilingue (ferry to Mazatlan)
26
413
   
Mazatlan (old town) sign Bienvenidos Mazatlan
12
12
Bienvenidos sign Villa Union
12
24
Villa Union Rosario
H
45
69
Rosario Escuinapa
H
23
92
Escuinapa Acaponeta turn-off
64
156
Acaponeta t.o. Acaponeta
H
3
159
Acaponeta Rosamorada
53
212
Rosamorada Santiago Ixcuintla turn-off
34
246
turn-off Santiago Ixcuintla
H
8
254
Santiago Ixcuintla San Blas
H/C
45
299
   
San Blas Las Varas
H
70
70
Las Varas Rincon de Guayabitos
H
23
93
Rincon de Guayabitos Sayulita
H/C
52
146
Sayulita top climb (138)
10
156
Top climb Puerto Vallarta
H
38
194
Puerto Vallarta start climb (after Mismaloya)
17
211
Start climb top climb (734)
22
233
Top climb El Tuito (598)
H
6
239
El Tuito end downhill (100)
22
261
end downhill Tomatlan turn-off
21
282
Tomatlan turn-off Campo Acosta (28)
H
27
309
Campo Acosta Punta Perula trun-off
H/C
28
337
Punta Perula turn-off Agua Caliente
42
379
Agua Caliente start climb
17
396
Start climb top climb (264)
8
404
Top climb San Patricio Melaque
H/C
8
412
   
   
San Patricio Melaque Cihuatlan
H
17
17
Cihuatlan Miramar
H
27
44
Miramar Manzanillo
H
20
64
Manzanillo Cuyutlan
H
34
98
Cuyutlan Tecoman
H
27
125
Tecoman Cerro de Ortega
26
151
Cerro de Ortega San Juan de Alima
H/C/B
25
176
San Juan de Alima Maruata
B
63
239
Maruata Tizupan

45

284
Tizupan Hua Hua
B
23
307
Hua Hua Caleta de Campos
H/B
39
346
Caleta de Campos Chiquapan
B
20
366
Chiquapan La Mira
36
402
La Mira Lazaro Cardenas turn-off
13
415
Lazaro Cardenas turn-off Guacamayas
H
2
417
Guacamayas Petacalco
H
20
437
Petacalco Zihuatanejo
H/C
93
530
   
   
Zihuatanejo San Jeronimito
H
27
27
San Jeronimito Petatlan
H
10
37
Petatlan Papanoa
H/B
44
81
Papanoa San Luis de Loma
H
24
105
San Luis de Loma Tecpan turn-off (start cuota)
27
132
Tecpan turn-off (start cuota) San Jeronimo
H
23
155
San Jeronimo Coyuca
H
50
205
Coyuca Bajos de Ejido
15
220
Bajos de Ejido Acapulco Centro
H
15
235
   
Acapulco Centro Ruta Enscenica top climb (256)
13
13
Ruta Enscenica top Barra Vieja
H/B
34
47
Barra Vieja back on 200
11
58
200 turn-off San Marcos
H
24
82
San Marcos Las Vigas
H
22
104
Las Vigas Cruz Grande
H
17
121
Cruz Grande Copala
H
21
142
Copala Marquelia
H
20
162
Marquelia Juchitan (158)
H
21
183
Juchitan San Juan de los Llanos (38)
H
17
200
San Juan de los Llanos Cuajinicuilapa (73)
H
27
227
Cuajinicuilapa turn-off 125 (240)
46
273
turn-off 125 Pinotepa Nacional (200)
H
6
279
Pinotepa Nacional Santiago Jamiltepec (487)
H
32
311
Santiago Jamiltepec San José del Progreso (25)
H
30
341
San José del Progreso Santa Rosa de Lima
H
10
351
Santa Rosa de Lima Rio Grande
H
23
374
Rio Grande Puerto Escondido
H/C
52
426
         
Puerto Escondido turn-off Mazunte/Zipolite
58
58
turn-off Mazunte/Zipolite San Pedro Pochutla
H
23
71
San Pedro Pochutla turn-off Airport
30
101
turn-off Airport turn-off Santa Cruz Huatulco
12
113
turn-off Santa Cruz Huatulco Copalita
H
13
126
Copalita Coyul
38
164
Coyul Santiago Astata (60)
H
20
184
Santiago Astata Morro Mazatan
H
46
230
Morro Mazatan turn-off cuota Tehuantepec
15
245
turn-off cuota Tehuantepec Salina Cruz
H
13
258
Salina Cruz Santo Domingo Tehuantepec
H
16
274
         
Santo Domingo Tehuantepec Juchitan de Zaragoza
H
27
27
Juchitan de Zaragoza La Ventosa
16
43
La Ventosa Niltepec
H
36
79
Niltepec Zanatepec
H
31
110
Zanatepec Pascual Fuentes
H
11
121
Pascual Fuentes San Pedro Tapanatepec (35)
H
12
133
San Pedro Tapanatepec turn-off to Arriaga / Tapachula
1
134
turn-off Arriaga/Tapachula top climb / continental divide (752)
25
159
top climb / continental divide Hospedeja near Rosendo Salazar (720)
H
8
167
Hospedeja turn-off to Arriaga
24
191
turn-off to Arriaga Cintalapa (525)
H/C
21
212
Cintalapa turn-off to Jiquipilas 1
7
219
turn-off to Jiquilipas 1 turn-off to Jiquilipas 2
3
222
turn-off to Jiquilipas 2 start climb (500)
10
232
start climb top climb (742)
7
239
top climb Ocozocoautla turn-off (772)
19
258
Ocozocoautla turn-off Berriozabal turn-off (1010)
10
268
Berriozabal turn-off Tuxtla Gutierrez centro (550)
H
26
294
Tuxtla Gutierrez centro turn-off Chiapa de Corzo (440)
11
305
turn-off Chiapa de Corzo Chiapa de Corzo centro (450)
H
3
308
Chiapa de Corzo centro entrance quota (440)
3
311
entrance quota / start climb (440) top climb (2241)
42
353
top climb San Cristóbal de las Casas (2106)
H
8
361
         
San Cristóbal de las Casas turn-off Comitan
13
13
turn-off Comitan top climb (2359)
3
16
top climb Huixtan (1975)
17
33
Huixtan Oxchuc (1901)
18
51
Oxchuc Cuxulja (1264)
26
77
Cuxulja start downhill (1233)
13
90
start downhill Ocosingo (920)
H
5
95
Ocosingo Temó (947)
21
116
Temó start downhill (1033)
13
129
start downhill bridge / lowest point (401)
19
148
bridge / lowest point turn-off Agua Azul (530)
6
154
turn-off Agua Azul turn-off Misol Ha (360)
H/C
40
194
turn-off Misol Ha start downhill (410)
6
200
start downhill turn-off road 307 to Benemerito (210)
5
205
turn-off road 307 to Benemerito Palenque (100)
H/C
9
214
         
Palenque turn-off to Benemerito
10
10
turn-off to Benemerito turn-off to Chamcala (170)
34
44
turn-off to Chamcala Ricardo Flores Magon (210)
H
21
65
Ricardo Flores Magon 11 de Julio (185)
H
7
72
11 de Julio Nuevo Guerrero (268)
31
103
Nuevo Guerrero Tres Lagunas (400)
H
24
127
Tres Lagunas San Javier (450)
7
134
San Javier turn-off to Frontera Corozal (250)
15
149
turn-off to Frontera Corozal Frontera Corozal (border, 200)
H
18
167
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